Fire and Lakes

 

17 January 2019

Firstly, Happy 2019 !!!!

We are now into our third year of travel. Year 3 actually began on 1 November 2018, being three years after we moved out of Pennant Hills and into Jake, our caravan at the time.  Since leaving Penno, Henry has driven 61,000 km and Blake has followed for 18,600 of those. The combined Jake and Blake distance is 30,300 km. Not all that far really, but we always planned to take our time.

Now, back to “Fire and Lakes”. Our plans were that upon leaving our house sit in Brighton, north of Hobart on 7 January we would travel to Mount Field National Park, then on to Strathgordon in the southwest before doing a loop through the Central Highland Lakes district and back through the Midlands to Hobart for our flight to Sydney. However on the evening of 27 December, a lighting strike in the Gell River valley in the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park, just 40 km northwest of the Mt Franklin NP ignited a fire in the remote wilderness. The uncontrolled fire spread quickly, leading to the closure and evacuation of the Mt Field NP, and the closure of the Strathgordon Road. We followed the updates on the Tas Fire and National Parks websites over the following week, and decided to give the authorities time to hopefully bring the fire under control and followed our planned route in reverse, so we’d be at Mt Field later rather than sooner.

Our first stop was at Lake Sorell, the most eastern lake in the Lakes region. The lake was closed to fishing until March, so we had the place virtually to ourselves. Camping near gum trees always makes me a little nervous, so after 2 nights we continued on our way with the intention to spend a few nights on Arthur’s Lake. Neither camp on the lake was particularly inviting, with one being quite crowded. As we are not fisher-people, and paddling on broad lakes can become boring and susceptible to winds, we pressed on, taking more roads less travelled, then on through the hydro town of Tarraleah to spend a few days at a freedom camp between the towns of Ouse and Hamilton, just 30 km by road to Mt Field NP. Though exposed to the winds, we had a great view of the upper River Derwent.

The Gell River fire was still burning over an ever increasing front, covering 19,000 Ha, so we kept clear for a few days.  We took a drive through the historic towns of Hamilton, Bothwell and Kempton in the Midlands enjoying the countryside through quiet back roads. Even Tasmania’s A-highways feel like quiet back roads.

The following day we headed to Mt Field without Blake to get first-hand details of the fire and closure situation. All alpine walks were closed, and the Strathgordon Road may have closed at any moment. However the popular walks to Russell Falls and other lower areas were still open to be enjoyed.  There was a lot of work being done to contain the fire, and there was no visible smoke that might lead to a closure of the park, and after a call to the national parks office the following day to see if the alpine areas were open, we returned  with Blake in tow. The alpine walks had reopened enabling us to enjoy several days in the park, covering the Three Falls Track, Lake Nicholls Track and Pandani Grove Loop together, whilst Yum Yum and I did the magnificent Tarn Shelf Return walk. I would have liked to have done the Tarn Shelf Circuit (5-6 hrs), but walking that far alone on a very rocky track was too high on my risk register. In the event of a fall or turned ankle, Yum Yum would not be able to render much assistance.

On our fourth day at the park we decided to travel the 90 km to Strathgordon and the Gordon Dam. There were several well regarded campsites in the vicinity and NP advice at the time was good. However, we decided to leave Blake at Mt Field and do a day trip out and back, rather than camping near Strathgordon for 3 nights. Good move!!! Thunderstorms that night started over 70 bushfires from lightning strikes across the entire southwest leading to the closure of all camping around Lakes Gordon and Pedder, and again closed all alpine walks. So the next morning, having seen and done all that we wanted to see in the region, we were able to leave Mt Field very satisfied. However, we have 3 nights to kill before returning to Hobart. The town of New Norfolk on the River Derwent will be our home for those 3 days.

A stunning sunset in the last week of our house sit as the skies over Hobart are filled with smoke and ash from the Gill River fire.
Our camp at Lake Sorell. Tall trees and no neighbours. We even had a fire as there were no fire bans whilst we were there.
Great Lake is the largest lake in the Highlands (3,000 million cubic metres) and the site of Tasmania’s first hydro electric plant. The original Miena Dam was constructed in 1916. Dam No. 2 was built in 1922, consisting of 27 concrete arches. A 22m high rockfill dam was built behind it in 1967 and raised a further 6m in 1982. Gotta love engineering!
The Tarraleah and Tungatinah power stations sit on either side of the Nive River in the Central Highlands. Tarraleah (top right) was constructed in 1938 in a classic art-deco style, whilst the rather bland Tungatinah station (top left) was constructed in 1953.
Ellendale-Bethune campground on the upper Derwent. A free camp with a great view.
St Peter’s Church in the historic town of Hamilton. The stone mason had trouble setting out his lettering, going a little wide on two occasions.
Prospect House at Hamilton. Some 200 years old, the previous owner developed an Italian garden and English garden over 40 years. The new owners (of just 2 years) have a lot of work to do to keep it maintained, but it is falling into some weed filled disrepair.
The historic town of Bothwell
Our camp in the Mt Field National Park. The sites were quite narrow so you got to know your neighbours. Our first neighbours were a lovely German couple, B1 and B2, spending about 10 days in Tasmania. Carol and I are taking 5 years to see Australia, this couple are taking one year to see the world! We also had another great German couple on the other side of us.
The Tarn Shelf track with Yum Yum

Lake Seal from the Tarn Shelf track
Wild flowers in Mt Field NP
Government Huts, on the Lake Dobson Road in the Mt Field NP. They are available for accommodation, but have been closed during the Gill River fire.
Three Falls Track, Mt Field NP. Lady Barron Falls and Russell Falls, both with a lot less water than the tourist brochures depict. It’s pretty dry down here. Carol is pondering the 239 steps we are about to ascend.
Lake Nicholls, Mt Field NP.
The very stunning Gordon Dam. Constructed during a storm of controversy in 1974, it is of a double arch construction, and the top of the wall leans out over the base of the wall, most evident in photo below. The design uses the strength of the gorge walls, rather than the mass of the dam wall, to restrain the water. Gotta love engineering. That’s me on the top of the wall, after descending 198 steps.
The downstream face, and the magnificent Gordon River gorge immediately downstream of the wall.
Downstream of the nearby Serpentine Dam
Lake Pedder

4 thoughts on “Fire and Lakes”

  1. Hey guys
    Great to see your still on the road, shame about the fires….
    Hope you had a lovely birthday, Graham… did you get our call and text….
    Love to you both
    Ron and Sue

  2. Wondered how you were going down there with the fires. Seems you are making the most of it as usual. Very hot here, reminds me of your birthday last year. Hopefully it will cool off soon.
    Travel safe
    Bob & Jane

  3. Great photos… we must have been so close to you.. we were at Brady’s Lake just north of Tarraleah last weekend 🙏
    Looking forward to seeing you in Hobart.. safe travels 😘

  4. Hello you 2 .i thought I had replied to your last contact ,but apparently not .
    Firstly was concerned for you both with all the fires .Ironic ,that all we had for 10 weeks was rain .
    After reading your latest blog ,I see you are working around the fires .
    Looking at your photos was like reenacting our trip .Obviously similar tastes .
    How lovely was Lime Bay & Mt Field campgrounds?
    We stayed @ Mayfield Bay a few times also .
    We ended up doing 40 of the 60 great short walks ,so will need to return for the remainder.Although it’s called short walks ,last one was 7 hrs & most were 2 or 3 hrs …all done with a broken arm I might add .
    On that topic ,plaster came off before new year & had to go back on after X-rays .Finally off now ,but appears I have ligament damage & so on ,so not back at work ( boo hoo ) & on the slow road to recovery.Hopefully no surgery .
    Terry is back to work but have managed to getaway in camper for weekends .My Birthday this weekend & we are camping @ the Grampians & hiking for 3 days .
    Travel to Sydney 1st March for 6 weeks east coast seeing friends & family & our Son & daughter’s weddings .Yes same month .
    Planning 10 weeks in winter to do Red Centre .
    Loving your blogs & would love to stay in touch & meet up again on the road .
    Cheers Julie & Terry

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